How do you make the joint/socket for a Glyos custom short run?

[walksleeper]

Hi All!

Trying to get educated on making custom Glyos heads and parts, and have three big questions.

1. If one is fortunate enough to get Matt's blessing to produce a small run (or just a one-off), what does the "male" joining part consist of? Is it a resin casting of the "male" Glyos joining part then glued to the original sculpt and then recast to form a whole piece, or just a generic post of some kind sculpted to the part (then recast) that just fits in the "female"/socket? I've seen many pics of short run resin heads and pieces, but never a pic of what's actually joining them to the Glyos bodies.

2. What about the process of making the "female"/socket on parts for a small run or one-off?

3. When using resin to cast up the arms, heads, weapons, etc, what is most often used, a hard grade resin, or a a somewhat flexible type to match the flexibility of the original Glyos pieces they will be attached to?

I would like to hear as many different opinions as you all would be willing to share. Pics would be great, too.
Thanks!
Sleeper

[VENENOR]

I don't have a lot of experience on this but I can let you know what I've seen others do. Some have either sculpted directly on an existing Glyos figure head or they dremeled/carved the existing head down some and then applied their sculpey or apoxie sculpt to create a different shaped head. Essentially there's a "core" within the sculpt that's PVC with the male pin already attached. Using an existing head to start off with also give you a flat underside of the neck along with the peg which gives you the base you'd want for the head to set properly and evenly. There's plenty or Glyos parts from various figures that you could use as a "core" for the neck though. Take the end pieces from an axis joint set for instance. Those would work as-is as a neck with male pin ready to go, then you add your' sculpey or apoxie sculpt to it and create your head. On the flip side it has a female port opening so if you wanted to create something like a new tentacle arm or a cannon arm like Mega-Man you add your sculpt to the other end leaving the female port open to function as the part you're making. Either way should well as long as the sculpt is able to cure properly before you try to make a mold of it.

As for mold making and resin work there's several peeps here that should be able lend some knowledge. Hope this helps and don't forget to show off some work-in-progress pics.

[walksleeper]

Thanks much for all the helpful info, VENENOR!

I'm also curious as to how well the completed resin version of the Glyos male would hold up.

Do you think it would break off possibly when trying to a snap it into the original Glyos female port, and vice versa with an original Glyos male snapping into a resin female port?

[tat2artst]

I made resin figures forever ago sculpting on top of regular glyos parts. the resin pegs were fine plugging into glyos parts (as the pvc is not as rigid) resin to resin the parts rub and scrape and become loose over time (I was using tap plastics cheap resin)

a lot of resin heads use straight pins for the peg. you can get little flames from the craft/hobbystore or online that have pins that are perfect size you just have to cut off the flame. something like these :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BS4DNS/re ... PzbF95H9RK

[walksleeper]

Thanks a lot for the additional help, tat2artst!

[Bionic]

I have always thought that the female ports are made by just drilling into the sculpt, or maybe cast it in resin then drill. But that probably isn't the actual way to do it. I'm thinking about things like the resin repoclaimer prototype.